This dish evokes the country-style cooking of countless generations of women feeding their families on the bounty of their own farms and surrounding countryside. As is often the case with foods found growing together in the same region, apples and hazelnuts have a happy affinity for one another. Add a creamy mustard sauce to the mix, along with a succulent chicken, and you have a sensational meal.
For this early Fall soup, I decided to keep the focus on the corn. It’s all too easy to overwhelm the sweet, subtle flavor of corn with other more assertive ingredients. By keeping the more assertive flavors separate, as in the accompanying escabeche, the contrasting flavors do a little jig on the palate, taking turns on center stage–rather than melding together in an incomprehensible mash.
So naturally, when the article took a surprising turn and ventured into the contents of Stowell’s refrigerator, I was hooked all the way to the end–where I found out about the fudgesicles and the shrimp-flavored fish balls. You can tell a lot about a person by surveying the contents of his frig. Maybe even the secret behind those soups–or at least the mind that created them. Call it culinary voyeurism if you must, but who doesn’t relish a good peak behind the “stainless steel door?”