You are looking at perhaps the most delectable pork belly in the world. No, the universe. According to one of the amiable chefs behind the kitchen bar from which MauiJim and I were watching the action, it was cooked sous-vide at 145 degrees–for TWO DAYS.

You won’t, however, find this mentioned on the menu. I only suspected it after the fatty portion of the pork belly melted on my palate like warm butter. Then I asked. If I had been paying better attention, the plastic pouch from which the chef removed the portion of pork belly would have been an immediate give-away.

But I wasn’t paying attention while the chef was preparing my pork. Instead, I was completely enthralled with the gorgeous, silky, minty, and very fresh tasting English Pea & Herb Soup with Tangerine Bubbles. And yes, there was some moaning.

I have always felt that one can accurately assess the palate, technical ability, and culinary philosophy of a cook by tasting his or her soups. This soup was breathtaking in its simplicity, with thoughtfully balanced, bright and full flavor. It was also perfectly seasoned, something of a rarity these days. After tasting this soup, I trusted the entire menu. Indeed, I now trust anything this chef might want to serve me.

As it turns out, a lot of other folks feel the same way. The tasting menu is a big draw. For 200 bucks a head, you can book the Chef’s Table for the evening and put yourself fully under the spell of chef-owner, William Belickis. But if that sounds a bit over the top, there is also an 8 course meal for 90 bucks and a four course meal for 60 bucks.

For a more casual experience, you aren’t going to go wrong ordering off the ala carte menu either. Everything here is prepared either on a conduction burner, in a sous-vide immersion cooker, in a large wood-burning oven, or all three. Not a gas burner in sight.

Take the Roasted Alaskan Halibut, Fresh Green Garbanzos, Parsnip Puree & Tangerine Oil for instance. We have never seen such LOVE lavished on a piece of fish. The chef started the fish in a sauté pan over a conduction burner. After a while, he checked the crust forming on the bottom and added a dollop of butter. Then he started spooning the by now browned butter over the fish again and again and again. Oh the aroma! Finally the pan with the fish was put into the oven where he carefully checked it every minute or so, then at last turned the fish over to crust the other side. It was cooked perfectly and completely infused with the flavor of the lemony brown butter. Every order of halibut got the same rapt attention. We were spellbound. MauiJim can’t stop talking about this dish. We’ll probably have to go back to Mistral next week so he can have it again. But hey, I’m not complaining.

The Arugula Salad with Fennel, Pecorino, Lemon & Fromage Blanc, which was part of three courses for $25 presented in conjunction with the Seattle Restaurant Week event, was simple and refreshing.

Keeping our selections on the light side, we had plenty of room left for dessert. I have an enduring love for the dense, slightly chewy, little French cakes called friands or financiers. Pastry chef, Neil Robertson, creates an inspired version with his Rhubarb Financier, Fromage Blanc Szechwan Pepper Sorbet & Rhubarb Soup.  Rhubarb is delicious but rarely elegant. This dessert proves it can be done.

And I never pass up Tres Leche Cake on a restaurant menu. Chef Robertson’s version, Lemon Tres Leche with Tuile & Fresh Strawberry Sorbet is exceptionally light, subtly sweet, and perfectly accompanied by a sorbet that tastes of summer field strawberries and an exceptionally thin praline cookie.

The last thing I asked the “halibut whisperer” chef was, “Does the menu change often?” Surprised, he responded with, “Oh yes, very often and with the seasons.” Perfect, because this is one Seattle restaurant that we want to return to again and again.

More Great Things to Eat

Amazing Charcuterie Platter

Manila Clams, Chorizo, White Wine & Orange Gremolata

Honey Glazed Pork Chop, Flowering Kale & Purple Potatoes

Catch the Buzz

Mistral Kitchen

Seattle Met: Mighty Meals by Kathryn Robinson

Seattle Weekly: A Mighty Wind by Jason Sheehan

Seattle Magazine: Sneak Peek: Inside Mistral Kitchen’s New Digs by Lorna Lee

Seattle PI: On Food: Mistral Gives Way for an Exciting Concept by Rebekah Denn

Seattle Restaurant Week

SMITH (Seattle, Capitol Hill)

Gastro pubs are all the rage in Seattle these days. I’m somewhat guarded in my enthusiasm. I love the casual atmosphere, as I am often dressed in running shoes, leggings, and one of my vast collection of wacky Hawaiian shirts. Not restaurant worthy, in other words. But hungry nonetheless.

I’m guarded, because although I love the general vibe of these latter day taverns with their rustic slap dash look, open beam ceilings, picnic tables, and second-hand lighting, the food can be ill conceived or even an afterthought. Good idea. Poor execution.

However, I assure you that this is not the case with Smith on Capitol Hill in Seattle. As I walked by a street-side diner at the restaurant this evening, I did a double take on a plate of something rich, brown, gooey and highly aromatic. It turned out to be Poutine Fries with Cheese Curds and Gravy. I must have been drooling, because the lovely woman eating the dish actually offered me a bite. You have to LOVE Seattle, folks!

It was torture not ordering those fries, but I was on a mission to try the Macaroni with Gouda and Ham for LunaCafe’s upcoming yearly roundup, Quintessential
Mac & Cheese. It was not a letdown. Imagine a generous portion of toothsome elbow macaroni enrobed with a creamy, cheesy, smoky flavored sauce and finished with just the lightest sprinkling of breadcrumbs and a few minutes under the broiler. The itsy bitsy price was a bonus.

MauiJim quickly scanned the menu and ordered Brick Chicken with Polenta, Cream Corn, and Piquillos. Bet you haven’t seen that dish on a menu recently. I love it when the kitchen shows some imagination. I especially love it when they possess the necessary culinary skill to successfully execute their vision. The chicken was perfectly grilled, moist, tender, and flavorful with a hint of smoke. The creamy corn sauce was rich, piquant, and interesting over the creamy fried polenta. Let’s just say there was not a speck of anything left on the plate when my man was done with his dinner.

BTW, Smith is a 2-years-young sibling of Odd Fellows Café (Capitol Hill), King’s Hardware (Ballard), and Linda’s Tavern (Capitol Hill).

Drink

15 beers on tap

40+ bottled beers

Stumptown coffee

Eat

Poutine Fries with Cheese Curds and Gravy

Brick Chicken with Polenta, Cream Corn, and Piquillos

Macaroni with Gouda and Ham

Grilled Gruyere and Onion Jam Sandwich

Brownie with Salted Caramel Ice Cream