I was walking through the Portland Farmers Market a couple of weeks ago and did a double take on a stack of orange cauliflower. I adore cauliflower (the earthy flavor, the crunchy or creamy texture), and the only nit I can pick with this lovely vegetable is its color. It gets lost on a white plate and looks pallid and unimaginative next to other basic ingredients I love, such as potatoes, rice, pasta, and poultry.

There are ways to work around this of course. Roasting comes to mind, as does tossing in buttered breadcrumbs. But I know in my heart that I eat more broccoli than cauliflower, not because I like broccoli better than cauliflower (rather the reverse) but because broccoli is green and green makes magic on the plate.

So there I was, staring at ORANGE cauliflower. I was enthralled with the gorgeous color and bought two heads. But what to do with it?

The first recipe that came to mind was one I made for my students at the Northwest Culinary Academy: a silky, subtle cauliflower soup. I looked up the recipe when I got back to the OtherWorldly Kitchen–and yawned. Subtlety does not interest me as it used to. Big bold flavor interests me.

Luckily, cauliflower can hold its own with big bold flavor, even curry spices, mustard, or both. So I reached in the frig for a jar of Dulcet Madras Curry Mustard and this new soup is the result. Don’t worry though. If you don’t happen to have this marvelous condiment on hand, I give you an acceptable substitute in the recipe.

But first, you must buy the cauliflower.

Buying Cauliflower

When buying fresh cauliflower, look for heavy, firm heads. There should be no discoloration (brown patches) on the florets (also called curds) and the leaves should be crisp, not limp. Color ranges from creamy white, to green, orange, and even purple. Purple cauliflower turns green when cooked, so maximize its unusual color by serving it as part of a crudité platter or other cold dish. You may also encounter the Romesco cauliflower, which is pyramid-shaped and a gorgeous yellow-green. Or Broccoflower, which is green all the way through.

And then prepare it.

Preparing Cauliflower

The only time I have cut myself seriously in the kitchen is in preparing a large cauliflower, so a word to the wise. Keep the hand that is holding the cauliflower BEHIND the blade of the knife. I’m just sayin’.

1. Pull off and discard the green leaves that surround the base of the cauliflower.
2. Position the cauliflower head down on a cutting board and work a sharp knife around the base in a cone shaped fashion. Your objective is to remove the stalk that holds the florets together. Make sure you keep the hand that is holding the cauliflower out of the way of the knife blade.
3. Now that the stalk is removed, you can more easily see how the florets attach to the core. Slice each floret cluster through its base, separately it from the head.
4. Break large clusters of florets into smaller pieces.

You can also watch this How to Cut Cauliflower video. I appreciate this chef’s approach, because he is careful to preserve the integrity of each floret (no cut sides).

Creamy Cauliflower Leek Soup with Curried Mustard Croutons

An earlier version of this seductive soup surprised many of my culinary students who claimed to loath cauliflower. The cauliflower flavor note is definitely front and center, but it is softened and rounded with melted leeks and onion and then brightened with curried mustard and fresh lemon. Crunchy croutons add textural contrast and a surprising flavor hit of their own.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon cold-pressed, extra virgin olive oil
2 large leeks, white and pale green section only, cleaned, trimmed and sliced (3 cups sliced)
1 large yellow onion, peeled, trimmed, and chopped (2 cups chopped)
1 tablespoons Dulcet Madras Curry Mustard (or 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard and 1 teaspoon curry paste)

1 large or 2 small heads orange cauliflower, separated into small flowerets (2 pounds trimmed)
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock (and possibly up to 1 cup more)

1½ cups cream

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste
freshly ground white pepper

Garnish
Curried Mustard Croutons (recipe below)
cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil

1. In a soup pot, melt butter and oil over medium heat.
2. Add leeks and onion, and cook slowly to soften without browning, about 15 minutes.
3. Add mustard and stir to combine.
4. Add cauliflower and stock, bring to a simmer, and partially cover.
5. Simmer until cauliflower is tender, about 10 minutes, replenishing the stock if it reduces too much.
6. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup. (You can also let the soup cool somewhat, and then puree it in a blender or processor.)
7. Add the cream and whisk to combine. Bring just to a simmer. Adjust the consistency of the soup by adding more stock if necessary.
8. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
9. Ladle into serving bowls. Garnish each serving with Curried Mustard Croutons and a drizzle of olive oil.

Makes about 10 cups; serves 6-8.

Curried Mustard Croutons

Croutons add a great textural contrast to soups and salads. These zippy croutons add a flavor boost as well.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon cold-pressed, extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon Dulcet Madras Curry Mustard (or 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard and 1 teaspoon curry paste)
5-6 ounces cut or torn French or Italian bread
coarse sea salt in grinder
black pepper in grinder

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the butter, olive oil, and Dulcet Madras Curry Mustard.
2. Add the torn or cut bread and toss to coat with the mustard mixture.
3. Grind salt and black pepper over the croutons and toss to distribute evenly.
4. Arrange croutons on an edged baking sheet and bake at 350° for about 15 minutes, turning with a spatula once or twice in the process. Croutons with be crunchy and golden brown here and there when done.
5. Remove from the oven and let cool on the baking sheet.
6. Store in airtight freezer bags until needed. Croutons will keep for a few days. Rewarm to freshen.

Resources

• About Cauliflower
• Recipe Tips: All About Cauliflower
• The World’s Healthiest Foods: The Latest News About Cauliflower
• SamCooks: All about Cauliflower
• Williams-Sonoma: All about Cauliflower

I Love Hearing from You!

Please leave a comment. Include your blog URL and CommentLuv will automatically link back to your most recent blog post. And join me at LunaCafe on Facebook for daily adventures in the OtherWorldly Kitchen. Blessings…Susan

Copyright 2012 Susan S. Bradley. All rights reserved.

I have a passion for seafood cakes of any variety: Dungeness crab cakes, shrimp cakes, fresh or smoked salmon cakes, and varieties yet untried. They are easy to make, but many a fine cook errs by adding too much binder. You want to taste the seafood and the seasoning, not what is holding them together–bread crumbs typically.

A trick I learned early on when trying to create a seafood cake with only a small amount of binder that would still hold together reasonably well, is to use the gelatinous binding power of the seafood itself where possible. Raw prawns, scallops and salmon all have this gelatinous property. It is maximized when the seafood is pureed.

However, because we still want tantalizing chunks of seafood in our cakes and because it only takes a small amount of protein binder to ensure a cake that will hold together, I suggest pureeing only 1/3 of the seafood and then chopping the rest. You can puree as little as ¼ of the seafood if you prefer. The cakes will still hold together.

Note The more of the seafood that you puree, the denser your cake will be (unless you also add a lot of cream and then it becomes a mousse). So easy does it.

Most seafood cakes I have sampled at restaurants are, well, uninspired. I understand the dilemma. You don’t want to overpower the flavor of the seafood. But if the auxiliary flavors are in harmony with the chosen seafood, it can be surprising how bold those accompanying notes can be, while still allowing the flavor of the seafood to hold center stage. Dungeness Crab in Black Bean Sauce comes to mind. How can that possibly work? My mind tells me the combination should obliterate the crab and yet my palate informs me the dish is spectacular.

These seafood cakes are NOT boring. This flavor composition creates a small explosion on the palate, and you will find it difficult to eat only one or two, even though they are quite rich.

Much to my delight, since I was feeding only myself and MauiJim, the cakes held up very well in the refrigerator even after sautéing. On the second and even the third night, I simply heated a few gently in the microwave before serving. The flavor actually improved and the coating suffered only marginally.

Curried Seafood Cakes with Fresh Ginger Aioli

You can make these delectable, succulent seafood cakes in first course size or appetizer size. If you want to serve them as a main course, serve two of the larger cakes to each diner. The curry and lime flavor here is particularly wonderful with prawns.

Purchasing Note For the seafood, purchase about ¼ pound additional to allow for removal of shells, skin, and so on. You need one usable pound of whichever seafood you choose.

Seafood: Choose One Only
1 pound, shelled, deveined raw prawns, 2/3 coarsely chopped, 1/3 pureed in processor
-or-
1 pound fresh cooked crabmeat, cartilage removed
-or-
1 pound skinned, fatty dark flesh removed, boned, fresh salmon, 2/3 coarsely chopped, 1/3 pureed in processor
-or-
¾ pound fresh salmon, prepared as described above, combined with ¼ pound cold-smoked (Nova-style) salmon, finely chopped in a processor
-or-
1 pound trimmed (small side muscles removed) scallops, 2/3 coarsely chopped, 1/3 pureed in processor

Curry-Lime Seasoning
1½ tablespoons best-quality curry powder (preferably Madras brand)
finely grated zest of 1 large lime
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon dry mustard (preferably Coleman brand)
½ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon cayenne (this is mildly hot, increase by ¼ teaspoon if you prefer more heat)
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¾ cup minced onion
½ cup minced celery
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon pressed or finely minced garlic

¼ cup best-quality mayonnaise (preferably homemade or Best Foods brand)
1 egg, lightly beaten
½ cup dry bread crumbs (Japanese Panko work well here)
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Finishing
1 cup very fine, dry bread crumbs (Japanese Panko work well here)
vegetable oil, for sautéing

Garnish
Fresh Ginger Aioli (recipe below)
slices of fresh lime

1. Clean and prepare your choice of seafood as described above.
2. To prepare Curry-Lime Seasoning, in a small bowl combine curry powder, cumin, dry mustard, cayenne, and cardamom. Reserve.
3. In a large sauté pan, melt the butter and sauté the onions over low heat until barely tender but not browned.
4. Add celery, fresh ginger, and garlic, and continue cooking over low heat onions and celery are tender.
5. Stir in Curry-Lime Seasoning and continue cooking for a few minutes.
6. Remove from the heat, and cool to room temperature.
7. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and mayonnaise until smooth. Add the onion mixture, seafood, and bread crumbs. Mix thoroughly to combine.
8. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to firm the mixture.
9. Shape the seafood cakes into 12 (3 tablespoons each) or 16 (2 tablespoons each) disks, each about ¾-inch thick. Dredge the cakes in dry bread crumbs, place on a parchment-lined cookie sheet, and refrigerate until ready to sauté and serve.
10. In a large skillet, using medium-high heat, heat vegetable oil at a depth of ½-inch until a drop of water sizzles briskly when sprinkled into the oil.
11. Put as many seafood cakes as will fit comfortably in the pan and sauté until nicely browned on both sides, about 3 minutes per side.
12. Remove the cooked cakes to a paper towel-lined baking tray, keep warm in a 200º oven, and continue cooking the remainder of the cakes.
13. Remove the seafood cakes to individual plates or to a platter, garnish with Fresh Ginger Aioli and slices of fresh lime, and serve.

Makes 12-16 cakes, depending on whether 2-tablespoon or 3-tablespoon size.

Fresh Ginger Aioli

1 cup best-quality mayonnaise (preferably homemade or Best Foods brand)
2 teaspoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon pressed or finely minced garlic
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
fine sea salt, to taste

1. In a small bowl, combine all ingredients.
2. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve.

Makes 1 cup.

LunaCafe’s Garam Masala

Garam Masala, the basic spice blend of Northern India, is a blend of hot or warm spices. The heat refers not only to the spicy hot flavor but also to the effect these spices generate in one’s body. This particular Garam Masala, my own special blend, is milder tasting that most curry powders. Coriander and cumin dominate the flavor here.

1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1½-inch length cinnamon stick
½ teaspoon whole cloves
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper

1. Heat a heavy sauté pan and add all of the spices. Dry roast the spices over medium-high heat, stirring and turning constantly, until fragrant, about 4-5 minutes.
2. Remove from the heat immediately and pour into a dish to cool
3. Using a spice grinder, grind the spices to a powder.
4. Store airtight in a cool dry location for up to three months.

Makes ¼ cup.

It’s a brilliant spring day in Portland, Oregon, and with the wind chill factored in, around 37 degrees. I bundled up in several layers and topped those off with my heaviest winter coat, scarf, and gloves in order to walk my customary loop from the Pearl district to the Northwest district, over to Burnside, and then back again, about 4 miles. With a Walk Score of 91 out of 100 (Walker’s Paradise), walking is definitely part of my daily regimen when I am in Portland, even when it’s cold. Plus, I need to make up for all the chocolate I ate in February.

Today, I saw only one cherry tree in full blossom, but quite a few trees are at least beginning to bud. Daffodils are suddenly everywhere. The birds are back in droves and a chipmunk scampered out to me on an eye-level branch and put out his hands, as if to say, “Hey lady, got a spare peanut?” Yes, spring has finally sprung in the Northwest.

The average minimum temperature for Portland in March is 39 degrees, with an average maximum temperature of 56 degrees. Still cold in other words. And even though the Portland Farmers Market opens on March 21^st (just in time for my birthday), I am thinking more about hearty, soul and body warming dishes than sprightly spring salads and grills.

In case you are on the same track in your corner of the world, I just put the finishing touches on the Lentil Primer. Check it out for basic guidelines on availability, selection, storage, preparation, cooking, and partnering with other ingredients. This is one ingredient that deserves wider appreciation and creativity in the kitchen. We shamelessly devoured the following soup, which magically got better and better with each day in the refrigerator. Now I need to make another batch quick before MauiJim notices there is none left.

Curried Tomato & Red Lentil Soup

Red lentils are wonderful legumes. They look as good as they taste—something of a feat for a member of the legume family. This soup is a casual meal in a bowl, with layers of flavor, heat, and spice—plus a nice balance between the sweetness of the vegetables and the acidity of the lemon juice and sour cream. It tastes best if made a day or two ahead, but we can never wait.

INGREDIENT NOTE If you don’t want the heat, omit the chiles.

2 tablespoons cold-pressed olive oil

4 cups chopped onion (2 large onions)

1 tablespoon minced or pressed garlic

2 tablespoon Madras brand curry powder

2-3 chile de arbol dried chiles, stemmed and crumbled (or ½-1 teaspoon crushed red pepper)

1 pound Washington red lentils, rinsed and checked for extraneous material

8-9 cups flavorful chicken stock, approximately (or vegetable stock)

two 14½ ounce cans chopped tomatoes (3 cups)

1½ cups chopped carrot (about 3-4 carrots)

1½ cups chopped celery (about 3-4 stalks)

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

fine sea salt, to taste

freshly ground white pepper, to taste

6 TBS. lemon juice

Garnish

3/4 cup sour cream or Greek-style yogurt, whisked briefly to smooth

small handful parsley leaves

4 very thin slices of lemon, quartered into wedge-shaped pieces

1. In a soup pot, heat the olive oil and cook the onions, partially covered, over low heat until softened but not browned. If the onions begin to stick and brown before they are softened, add a little of the chicken stock.
   
2. When softened, add garlic, curry powder, and crumbled dried chiles. Cook slowly for another minute or two.
   
3. Add the lentils, chicken stock, and tomatoes; stir and bring to a simmer.
   
4. Simmer slowly, partially covered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are almost tender.
   
5. Add the carrots and celery and continue simmering for an additional 5-10 minutes, until the vegetables are just tender-crisp and still colorful.
   
6. Stir in lemon juice.
   
7. Season to taste with salt and pepper, adding a little more chicken stock if necessary to achieve a medium-light consistency.
   
8. If desired, let cool, then refrigerate for several hours or days, until needed.
   
9. To serve, rewarm the soup.
   
10. Ladle into wide, shallow bowls, add a dollop of sour cream to each bowl, position a parsley leaf or two into the sour cream, and then position a tiny wedge of lemon next to the parsley.
    

Makes twelve 1-cup servings.

I can’t believe I spent most of my early life disliking sweetpotatoes. The very sight of them made me cringe. Thankfully, the only time they were served in my family was at Thanksgiving. And then they were that nasty concoction of sugary sweetpotatoes with marshmallows on top. You know the dish.

Today though, sweetpotatoes have a respected place in the LunaCafe kitchen. I have learned to use their inherent sweetness, creaminess, richness, and gorgeous color as a foil for numerous complimentary ingredients, particularly bold, spicy, and acidic counterparts. When a savory sweetpotato dish fails, it is usually because of blandness and sweetness that are not balanced with sufficient acid. I rarely buy a bag of sweetpotatoes without also thowing in a couple of juicy limes or a bottle of fresh, acidic apple cider — both are perfect sweetness balancers, and add interesting and complementary flavors as well.

I love to browse the local farmer’s markets in the fall to check out all the available varieties of sweetpotatoes: Beauregard, Hannah, Jewel, Nemagold, and Centennial, to name a few. The yams that are available in the Northwest, such as Red Garnet, are actually a variety of sweetpotato, so I look for those too. There are subtle differences that beg to be explored in the kitchen.

This fall, inspired by the bounty at the farmers markets, I developed several new soups using sweetpotatoes and yams, one of which I am sharing with you today. If you love sweetpotatoes, you will love this soup. But even if you don’t, try this recipe. It will change your mind.

By the way, I learned at the Oregon State University website that sweetpotato is now considered one word, to distinguish it from the potato family, to which it does not belong.

INGREDIENT NOTE Many of the winter squashes also make fine substitutes for sweetpotatoes: baby pumpkin, acorn, butternut, carnival, the smaller kabochas, or delicata, to name several commonly available varieties. For more information on winter squash varieties, selection, preparation, and storage, check out the Winter Squash Fresh Primer.

Curried Sweetpotato, Ginger, & Coconut Bisque with Cilantro Lime Oil & Toasted Coconut 

This is a sublime, intriguing, golden-orange bisque–creamy, spicy, and bold. Although you may be tempted to skip the garnish elements, don’t. They lift the flavor, adding a surprising and welcome counterpoint. Also, sweetpotatoes demand salt in the same way that potatoes do. You will need to add more than you think reasonable.

vegetable oil spray
1 pound sweetpotatoes or yams, peeled and cut in 2-inch chunks
1 head garlic, top ½ inch cut off to expose the garlic cloves
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups, peeled, finely chopped yellow onion (1 medium onion)
2 cups finely chopped leek, white and pale green portions only (about 1½ large leeks)
1 cup, peeled, finely chopped carrot
3 tablespoon peeled, minced fresh ginger
1-2 jalapeno chiles, stemmed, seeded, ribbed, and minced (use gloves)

finely grated zest of one lime
1 tablespoon best-quality curry powder (Madras brand is excellent)
1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
6 cups chicken stock
One 13.5 ounce can coconut milk
1 cup heavy cream
3-4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
fine sea salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper

Garnish
sour cream

chopped cilantro
unsweetened coconut shards, lightly toasted (Bob’s Red Mill Unsweetened Flaked Coconut is available in supermarkets)
Cilantro Lime Oil (see recipe below)

1. Lightly coat an edged baking sheet with vegetable spray.
2. Arrange the sweet potatoes, along with the head of garlic in a single layer on the sheet and roast at 375° for 35-45 minutes, until fully tender.
3. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large casserole or soup pot and slowly cook the onion, leek, carrot, ginger, and chilies until softened, but not browned, about 20 minutes.
4. During the last 5 minutes, add the lime zest, curry powder and thyme. Remove from the heat and hold until the sweet potatoes are ready to add.
5. When the sweet potatoes are tender, remove to a food processor fitted with the steel blade.
6. Squeeze the garlic from the papery shell and add to the processor.
7. Puree the sweet potatoes and garlic, slowly adding 1 cup of the chicken stock to get a smooth puree.
8. Scrape the mixture from the bowl of the processor, measure out 3½ cups, and add that to the soup pot, along with the remaining 5 cups of chicken stock and the coconut milk. (Any remaining sweet potato puree can be refrigerated and used later. I like to add it to mashed potatoes.)
9. Stir until incorporated, and then gently simmer until the flavors are melded and the liquid has reduced slightly, about 15 minutes. (For a more formal presentation, puree the soup with a hand-held immersion blender.)
10. Finally, add the cream and then adjust the flavor by adding salt, pepper, and plenty of lime juice until a flavor balance is achieved.
11. To serve, ladle 1 1/2 cups of soup into each bowl, drizzle sour cream and Cilantro Lime Oil over the top, and then scatter a few toasted coconut shards in the center of each bowl and sprinkle with chopped cilantro.

Makes 10-12 cups; serves 6-8.

Cilantro Lime Oil

small handful cilantro
3-inch length of a bunch of green onions
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/2 teaspoon salt

1. In the bowl of a processor fitted with the steel blade, finely chop the cilantro and green onion.
2. Slowly add the oil and process until well blended.
3. Add the lime juice, and then add salt to taste.
4. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Makes ¾ cup.

…