Have you ever set out to eat your way across a city, focusing on a single seasonal dish?

Well, I didn’t intend to go on a winter squash soup kick while in Boston in October, but one thing led to another, as the saying goes, and there I was at Sorellina on our last night in Boston eating my fifth winter squash soup.

And here’s the thing. I could have continued this madness for another week at least. It is highly instructive to see how top notch culinary artists across a major culinary mecca treat the same basic core ingredients and menu item, in this case, winter squash and a handful of flavor complements crafted into a smooth and silky soup.

Winter squash (which includes pumpkin) goes well with a surprising number of other flavors. Check out my Winter Squash Primer for a complete list. New to me on this tasting round, however, were pears, blue cheese, rye bread, and smoked maple syrup, all wonderful partners for winter squash.

The adventure began at Sel de la Terre on our first night in Bean Town. We sat at the bar overlooking the action in the kitchen and watched as dish after gorgeous dish made it to the pass. As I looked over the menu, I was hooked immediately by Chef Louis DiBiccari’s  winter squash soup with smoked maple syrup. The soup was spectacular. In fact, this is the most memorable winter squash soup I have ever eaten–bar none. The flavor pairing was completely harmonious and magical. Also perfect was the balance between the sweetness of the squash and an unnamed acidic counterpoint. The garnishes were lovely as well, but really, the soup stood on its own merit.

Sel De La Terre: Native Squash Soup, Smoked Maple Syrup, Sweet Onion-Date Vol Au Vent & Crème Fraiche

Sportello, one of Chef Barbara Lynch’s more novel restaurant concepts (with a focus on house-made pasta and counter-style seating) presented this classic example with a few interesting embellishments to keep me eating to the bottom of the bowl. The soup tasted brightly of cooked, pureed kuri squash and little else. I didn’t detect stock even. The color is a brilliant hue, as you can see, and the garnishes add visual interest.

Sportello: Kuri Squash Soup with Pork Belly, Rye Croutons & Pumpkin Seed Oil

Chef Gordon Hamersley of Hamersley’s Bistro pushed the concept a bit further using butternut squash with curry, diced, crunchy pears, and blue cheese crema. The sharp blue cheese paired with the sweet squash was surprisingly simpatico and the tiny dice of pears added textural interest.

Hamersley’s Bistro: Curried Butternut Squash Soup with Pear & Blue Cheese

At Sorellina, Chef Jamie Mammano chose pumpkin as the key ingredient for his winter squash soup. Curry, ginger, and pumpkin are a perfect flavor pairing with the diced pears adding a welcome textural contrast.

Sorellina: Heirloom Pumpkin & Ginger Spiced Pear Soup

And to top off the week of tasting, Chef John Welch of North 26 incorporated an Indian spin into his full flavored red kuri squash soup. Coconut milk and chile both mellowed and enlivened the creamy soup. Matchstick shreds of fried squash added an interesting textural as well as visual, contrast.

North 26: Bisque of Red Kuri Squash with Coconut Milk, Chiles & Ginger

So that’s it folks–five fabulous soups in five fabulous days in one of the most exciting food cities in the country.  I’m sure I missed a few equally stellar renditions, but there’s always next year.

Next Up

Check back for my own winter squash soup creation, inspired by a week of great eating in Boston: Warm Spiced Red Kuri Squash & Orange Soup with Cinnamon Harissa.

Resources

• Hamersley’s Bistro
• North 26
• Sel de la Terre
• Sorellina
• Sportello

We’re in Boston this week, and the first restaurant we head to when we’re in Boston is Clio.   I’ll share more of the food pics we’ve taken at Clio over the past few visits in an upcoming Boston Fresh post, but for now, let’s focus on the experience we had in the restaurant last night. Oh. My. God.

Clio is a chic, intimate, white-clothed oasis located in the elegant Eliot Hotel. We stopped in for appetizers only, as we had two additional restaurants on the evening’s itinerary. As we were eating and shooting at a small table in the bar, the cool looking, youngish guy in the lively group sitting next to us introduced himself as none other than Ken Oringer, the famous chef-owner of Clio, Uni, La Verdad, KO Prime, Toro and the soon to be launched Coppa.

You might remember Ken on Iron Chef America, (2008, season 6, episode 8, secret ingredient: coffee) as he battled chef Cat Cora for the title and won. Or as the James Beard Northeast Chef of the Year 2001 (after receiving the nomination for three years straight). It was a surprising bit of serendipity to actually be sitting in the bar at Clio talking with its inspired creator. If there’s a more down-to-earth, wildly adventurous chef in Boston, I haven’t met him or her yet.

The two appetizers we sampled were both stellar. I was especially enamored with Salad of Local Heirloom Tomatoes, Red Currants and Pink Watermelon Radish with Purslane, Mojama & Burrata Cheese. The presentation was spectacular and the multiple possible flavor combinations were an unexpected bonus. Although not listed in the menu description, the salad also contained Maine wild blueberries. BTW, mojama is salt-cured, then sun-dried tuna loin that is typically shaved very thin for serving. It added an intriguing savory bite to the salad.  Burrata is an Italian fresh cheese that combines mozzarella and cream for an especially soft texture. This salad successfully pushes tomato salad boundaries, while at the same time providing a reference to the classic tomato and mozzarella combination. A lovely dish that I would order again and again if I lived in Boston.

After eating two thoughtfully conceived and flawlessly executed desserts, I also talked with Clio’s pastry chef extraordinaire, Renae Herzog, a warm, unassuming, dedicated culinary artist.  I am a bit leery when ordering dishes that fall into the “molecular gastronomy” bucket. They often leave me feeling strangely disconcerted. Like a  kiss that doesn’t connect. Like an arrow that misses it’s mark.

Although I applaud the “bleeding edge” in every endeavor and love to push culinary boundaries myself, it’s important to remember that food has an emotional component that relies strongly on memory associations. Without those associations, my mind is overly engaged while my heart remains unnourished. For me, food can never be cerebral only.

And that’s what is so amazing about what chef Herzog achieves with her desserts. You experience something new AND the connection to the emotional past is not lost in that experience. What a fine and rare balancing act this is. If you are a student of the pastry arts, do yourself a favor: Go to Clio and order every dessert on the menu. Take your time savoring each presentation. And take notes.

P.S. Clio’s bar chefs are just that. Cocktails are thoughtfully conceived and perfectly executed. I love Acedia: Milagro Tequila, Grapefruit, House-Made Pomegranate Grenadine, Yuzu, & Ancho Chili Pepper Syrup. The fiery bite at the end of every sip is inspired.

Drink

• Acedia: Milagro Tequila, Grapefruit, House-Made Pomegranate Grenadine, Yuzu, Ancho Chili Pepper Syrup

Eat

• Crispy Soft Shell Crab Sandwich with Red Apple. Kimchee & Steamed Bun
• Salad of Local Heirloom Tomatoes, Red Currants and Pink Watermelon Radish with Purslane, Mojama & Burrata Cheese
• Black Licorice Roasted Muscovy Duck & Confit with Fennel Bulb, Rutabaga & Candied Pomelo
• Sweet Butter Basted Maine Lobster with Vadouvan Spice, Wild Asparagus, Fennel Pollen & Sea Urchin Emulsion
• Strawberry Fields with Coconut Sorbet, Cocoa Soil & Rose Dew
• Tahitian Vanilla Bean Cloud with Textures of Apple, Caramelized Puff Pastry & Goat Cheese Ice Cream

Resources

Clio

Boston Chefs

Restaurant Insider

SMITH (Seattle, Capitol Hill)

Gastro pubs are all the rage in Seattle these days. I’m somewhat guarded in my enthusiasm. I love the casual atmosphere, as I am often dressed in running shoes, leggings, and one of my vast collection of wacky Hawaiian shirts. Not restaurant worthy, in other words. But hungry nonetheless.

I’m guarded, because although I love the general vibe of these latter day taverns with their rustic slap dash look, open beam ceilings, picnic tables, and second-hand lighting, the food can be ill conceived or even an afterthought. Good idea. Poor execution.

However, I assure you that this is not the case with Smith on Capitol Hill in Seattle. As I walked by a street-side diner at the restaurant this evening, I did a double take on a plate of something rich, brown, gooey and highly aromatic. It turned out to be Poutine Fries with Cheese Curds and Gravy. I must have been drooling, because the lovely woman eating the dish actually offered me a bite. You have to LOVE Seattle, folks!

It was torture not ordering those fries, but I was on a mission to try the Macaroni with Gouda and Ham for LunaCafe’s upcoming yearly roundup, Quintessential
Mac & Cheese. It was not a letdown. Imagine a generous portion of toothsome elbow macaroni enrobed with a creamy, cheesy, smoky flavored sauce and finished with just the lightest sprinkling of breadcrumbs and a few minutes under the broiler. The itsy bitsy price was a bonus.

MauiJim quickly scanned the menu and ordered Brick Chicken with Polenta, Cream Corn, and Piquillos. Bet you haven’t seen that dish on a menu recently. I love it when the kitchen shows some imagination. I especially love it when they possess the necessary culinary skill to successfully execute their vision. The chicken was perfectly grilled, moist, tender, and flavorful with a hint of smoke. The creamy corn sauce was rich, piquant, and interesting over the creamy fried polenta. Let’s just say there was not a speck of anything left on the plate when my man was done with his dinner.

BTW, Smith is a 2-years-young sibling of Odd Fellows Café (Capitol Hill), King’s Hardware (Ballard), and Linda’s Tavern (Capitol Hill).

Drink

15 beers on tap

40+ bottled beers

Stumptown coffee

Eat

Poutine Fries with Cheese Curds and Gravy

Brick Chicken with Polenta, Cream Corn, and Piquillos

Macaroni with Gouda and Ham

Grilled Gruyere and Onion Jam Sandwich

Brownie with Salted Caramel Ice Cream