I spied a cauliflower gratin on a restaurant menu recently and was filled with nostalgia. It has been some time since such lovely, old-fashioned country French dishes were in vogue, and I miss them.
I wasn’t able to order the gratin that night and am compensating by creating what I imagine the quintessential dish should be. Happily, Northwest farmers markets are overflowing with just-picked cauliflower, so the timing is perfect.
The combination of tender cauliflower, creamy sauce, crisp bacon, smoky flavor, melted cheese, and crunchy topping make this dish especially appealing, as well as comforting at some deep level. It is the kind of dish I can imagine Julia and Paul Child eating half a century ago in their Paris apartment. Yes, I just saw Julie and Julia. J
Ingredient Notes

With applewood-smoked bacon (which is sensational), this dish stands on its own quite well, perhaps accompanied by a simple salad of leafy greens, oranges, and toasted hazelnuts tossed with a zippy vinaigrette.

To give the gratin an even smokier flavor, consider using Tillamook Smoked Cheddar in place of the aged cheddar.

If you plan to serve the gratin with something along the lines of Roast Tenderloin of Pork with Rhubarb Sauce (Pacific Northwest Palate: Four Seasons of Great Cooking), or even something as simple as baked ham, I recommend leaving out the bacon, which would add one too many competing flavor elements.

On a side note, it is actually a bit odd to see both fresh rhubarb and fresh cauliflower in Northwest farmers markets at the same time–mid August as of this writing. Small, local growers have extended fresh rhubarb season by many weeks, which is a gift to the seasonal cook.

Technique Note

The method I use here differs from the classic approaches I have encountered (such as the inestimable Julia Child’s Cauliflower with Cheese featured in my well worn copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking), in which you build a mornay sauce and then cover the steamed cauliflower with it.

This is lighter and fresher I think, and certainly easier. Cheese, even well-aged cheese, tends to separate in a sauce, so I have learned to always keep it separate in dishes such as this (or macaroni and cheese or potato gratin)–in short, in any dish where I have the opportunity to layer it, rather than melt it into a sauce. And there is no need to build a separate sauce here, as it creates itself in the oven.

Cauliflower Gratin with Tillamook Aged Cheddar, Caramelized Onions & Applewood-Smoked Bacon

I am very pleased with the way this dish turned out. It is wonderfully aromatic, with such an interesting play of flavors and textures. In short, heaven.

1 medium-large head white cauliflower (1 pound 2 ounces or 6 cups trimmed florets)

4 slices applewood-smoked bacon, fried or baked until crisp, drained, and crumbled

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1½ cups chopped onion (1 medium onion)

½ cup pale ale or dry white wine (or chicken stock and a teaspoon or two of fresh lemon juice)

½ cup chicken stock

2 cloves garlic, peeled, and pressed or minced

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup cream

2 cloves garlic, peeled, and pressed or minced

2 ounces (about 1 cup) shredded Tillamook Reserve Extra Sharp Cheddar (or Tillamook Smoked Cheddar or other medium-firm aged cheese with good melting quality)

Bread Crumb Topping

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups fresh bread crumbs

1 clove garlic, peeled, and pressed or minced

¼ cup grated Parmesan

Garnish

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

1. Bring a large pot of water to a full rolling boil and add the cauliflower. Cook for about 2 minutes, until the cauliflower has a bit of tenderness but is still decidedly crunchy. Drain into a colander set in the sink and refresh the cauliflower under cold running water until cool. Reserve.
   
2. Prepare the bacon as indicated above.
   
3. In a large sauté pan set over medium-low heat, melt the butter and add the onions.
   
4. Cook, stirring regularly, until the onions are softened but nicely caramelized, about 20 minutes.
   
5. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the wine and chicken stock, and simmer briskly until the liquid is nearly evaporated, about 10 minutes.
   
6. Add the garlic, thyme, and rosemary. Toss and season to taste with salt and black pepper.
   
7. Add the cooked, crumbled bacon, toss, and transfer the mixture to a lightly buttered or oiled baking dish.
   
8. Put the flour into a large measuring cup with a pouring spout and add a few tablespoons of the cream, whisking to achieve a smooth paste. Gradually add the remaining cream, whisking to dissolve the flour. Add the garlic, season the cream with salt to taste, and then pour over the cauliflower mixture.
   
9. Top the gratin with the cheddar cheese.
   
10. To make the breadcrumb topping, in a small sauté pan set over medium-high heat, melt the butter and add the fresh bread crumbs.
    
11. Sauté, stirring, until the bread crumbs are lightly toasted.
    
12. Remove from the heat and add the garlic. Remove to a small mixing bowl and combine with the parmesan.
    
13. Sprinkle the bread crumb mixture over the gratin.
    
14. Bake, uncovered, in the upper third of the oven at 350º for approximately 25 minutes, until the sauce has thickened and is bubbling through the top edges. The top should also be nicely browned and the cheddar melted by this time. If not, broil the top briefly to brown the top and melt the cheese.
    
15. Sprinkle the top of the hot gratin with chopped parsley and serve.
    

Serves 4-8, depending on whether it is the main dish or a side dish.