The Wonderful World of Unsweetened Cocoa Powder

Love is in the air: This is post two of the second annual Love Rules! All Chocolate! All Month! celebration at LunaCafe. For additonal chocolate recipes inspired by the season of love, see the All Chocolate! recipe archive.

With the proliferation of cocoa powders available today, how is a cook to know which is the “best” to use for any particular purpose?

To complicate the selection process, there are three types of cocoa powder: natural, alkalized (Dutch process) and super alkalized (black or onyx). Often, it doesn’t matter which one you use, but if you are baking with chemical leaveners, it does.

If your recipe calls for baking soda (alkaline) as the leavener, you need to counterbalance with a natural cocoa powder (acidic), unless the recipe calls for sufficient other acidic ingredients to activate the baking soda. An alkalized cocoa powder, which is neutral, will not activate the baking soda.

If your recipe calls for baking powder (balanced alkali and acid) as the leavener and contains no additional acidic element, you do not want the cocoa powder to shift the balance, thus you need an alkalized (neutral) cocoa powder. If an acidic element is also present, however, you might want to balance it with an alkalized cocoa powder.

To make sure we keep these straight, keep in mind that:

• Natural process cocoa has no added alkali. It has an intense bittersweet flavor with high natural acidity and full fruity flavor.
• Alkalized cocoa (also called Dutch process cocoa) is treated with an alkali, which helps neutralize cocoa’s natural bitterness and acidity. The alkalization process produces a powder that is typically darker and redder than naturally processed cocoa. Don’t assume, however that darker color implies deeper flavor. Alkalized cocoa is typically milder in flavor than naturally processed cocoa.
• Super-alkalized cocoa (also called black or black onyx cocoa) is alkalized to the extreme, producing an almost black cocoa powder. It contains less fat than other cocoa powders, and this lack must be compensated for in any recipe in which it is used.

To ascertain what the “best” cocoa powder is for you or for a specific culinary creation, purchase several cocoa powders (some natural, some alkalized) and conduct a taste comparison.

And remember that “best” is a relative term. Everyone’s taste buds are different, and you may appreciate a cocoa powder that I don’t, or vice versa. In addition, sampling a cocoa powder straight on with only a little sugar and water may give a different perception than the same cocoa powder baked into a brownie or blended into a pudding. So you may want to put a few of your favorite cocoas through a couple of basic baking tests as well.  

To Sample a Range of Cocoa Powders

1. Set a small, narrow, clear glass in front of each cocoa container. A shot glass is perfect for this exercise.
2. To each glass, add 2 teaspoons cocoa powder, 1 teaspoon superfine sugar, and 1 tablespoon hot tap water.
3. Stir to dissolve the cocoa and sugar. Set a clean spoon in front of each glass.
4. Now, start on one end of your row of samples and taste your way through the cocoas, making sure not to mix the spoons.
5. Take brief notes as you taste. Note color, aroma, texture, flavor notes, balance, and finish. Try not to jump to an immediate conclusion. Taste again very slowly and deliberately.

For my taste comparison, I assembled the following seventeen unsweetened cocoa powders, all of which I found locally in Northwest specialty shops and grocery stores. My conclusions follow, with one to three asterisks after the brands I especially liked. It’s interesting to note that almost all of my two and three star cocoas are natural process. The exception is Valrhona. 

1. Askinosie Soconusco Mexico ** (natural process)
2. Askinosie Davao Philippines *** (natural process)
3. Cacao de Pernigotti * (alkalized process)
4. Dagoba Cacao Powder (natural process)
5. Domori Cacao ** (natural process)
6. Droste Cocoa * (alkalized process)
7. E. Guittard Cocoa Rouge Cocoa Powder (alkalized process)
8. Equal Exchange Organic Baking Cocoa (natural process)
9. Ghirardelli Cocoa (natural process)
10. Green & Black’s Organic Cocoa Powder * (alkalized process)
11. Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa (natural and alkalized process)
12. Hershey’s Cocoa (natural process)
13. Nestles Cocoa (natural process)
14. Pralus Cacao Poudre Plantation *** (natural process)
15. Scharffen Berger Natural Cocoa Powder ** (natural process)
16. Trader Joe’s Organic Cocoa (natural process)
17. Valrhona Cocoa Powder *** (alkalized process)

Comparison Tasting of Seventeen Unsweetened Cocoa Powders

Askinosie **

Origin: Soconusco Mexico, single origin.
Purveyor: Cacao, PDX.
Type: Natural process.
Color: Medium dark brown.
Aroma: Unusual bright, almost pungent aroma.
Texture: Super thick and lush with a bit of non-objectionable fine granularity to the finish.
Flavor: Soft floral and woody notes with balanced acidity.
Conclusion: Lovely cocoa.

Askinosie ***

Origin: Davao Philippines, single origin.
Purveyor: Cacao, PDX.
Type: Natural process.
Color: Medium dark brown.
Aroma: Classic dark chocolate aroma.
Texture: Super thick and lush with quite a bit of non-objectionable granularity to the finish.
Flavor: High-bright lemon and fresh herb notes. Complex, intriguing, well-balanced, and absolutely delicious.
Conclusion: Stunning cacao.

Cacao de Pernigotti *

Origin: Italy.
Purveyor: Williams Sonoma.
Type: Alkalized process.
Color: Very dark, rich color with red undertones.
Aroma: Highly aromatic hot chocolate with soft vanilla notes.
Flavor: Complex flavor; bright, high notes and low notes; a lot of earthy vanilla notes, also caramel and woodsy notes.
Texture: Almost velvet mouth feel; lush, thick, creamy.  
Conclusion: Well balanced and delicious. The vanilla notes would be great when you want them but may not be suitable for every application.

Dagoba Organic Chocolate 

Origin: Ashland, Oregon.
Purveyor: City Market, PDX.
Type: Natural process.
Color: Dark reddish brown.
Aroma: Distinct, bright, aromatic.
Flavor: Immediate high-acid, bright notes followed by soft floral and woodsy notes. Lingering, almost too sharp finish. Somewhat one dimensional.
Texture: Thin bodied with noticeable talc residue on the tongue.
Conclusion: It is an interesting cacao but not as complex or multi-dimensional as some of the best on this list.

Domori Cacao **

Origin:  Italy, single origin.
Purveyor: Cacao and Foster & Dobbs, PDX.
Type:  Natural process, 22-24% cacao.
Color: Medium rich brown.
Aroma: Round, rich, soft aroma.
Flavor: Turbo-charged flavor with both high and deep notes in vibrant harmony. Classic full chocolate flavor with bright lemon-lime notes.
Texture: Very thick, smooth, lush mouth feel. Slight talc texture remains on the tongue.
Conclusion: Wow!

Droste Cacao * 

Origin: Holland.
Purveyor: City Market, PDX. 
Type: Alkalized process.
Color: Very dark reddish-brown.
Aroma: Full, hot chocolate aroma with soft vanilla notes.
Flavor: Full, high, bright flavor to begin, then woodsy with vanilla notes on the finish.
Texture: Thick, lush, super creamy mouth feel with a very slight talc-like dryness on the tongue to finish.
Conclusion: Well balanced with all notes in harmony. Not as distinctive as some of the other superb cocoas on this list but very fine indeed nonetheless.

E. Guittard Cocoa Rouge

Origin: Burlingame, California. 
Purveyor:  Sur La Table.
Type: Alkalized process.
Color: Deep red-brown.
Aroma: Off putting initially with medicinal note and then burnt wood, tobacco, cherry, and vanilla notes.
Flavor: Balanced flavor notes with no one note dominating. Mild overall with perhaps insufficient acidity.
Texture: Medium thick, smooth, and creamy with slight talc finish in the tongue..
Conclusion:  To my palate, here is something slightly off tasting about this cocoa powder. In any case, it doesn’t hold my interest.

Equal Exchange Organic Baking Cocoa

Origin: The Netherlands and Dominican Republic via Massachusetts.
Purveyor: Whole Foods.
Type: Alkalized process.
Color: Rich dark brown.
Aroma: Faint classic chocolate with woody note.
Flavor: Immediate highly bright floral notes that sustain to the finish.
Texture: Thin with gritty finish.
Conclusion: One dimensional flavor doesn’t hold my interest. Acidity dominates.

Ghirardelli Cocoa

Origin: San Leandro, California.
Purveyor: Whole Foods and City Market, PDX.
Type: Natural process.
Aroma: Full, chocolate brownie aroma.
Color: Rich reddish-brown.
Flavor: Starts soft, finishes very acidic, almost harsh. Assertive cherry, lemon, and vanilla notes.
Texture: Medium bodied, smooth and creamy with lingering sharp talc and tannic (puckery) finish on the tongue.  
Conclusion:  I don’t enjoy this cocoa straight on, but it’s sharp boldness may be an attribute in baked desserts.

Green & Black’s Organic Cocoa Powder *

Origin: Italy.
Purveyor: Whole Foods and City Market, PDX.
Type: Alkalized process.
Aroma: Full, flowery aroma.
Color: Dark, reddish-brown color.
Flavor: Intense, high, bright, floral and citrus notes dominate with a lingering, woodsy after taste.
Texture: Lush, smooth mouth feel. Not as thick as Valrhona but nice nonetheless.
Conclusion: I like this cocoa a lot.

Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa

Origin: Pennsylvania.
Purveyor: Safeway.
Type: Blend of natural process and alkalized process cocoas.
Color: Very dark color; darkest of this group.
Aroma: Soft chocolate aroma.
Flavor: Deep, balanced flavor.
Texture: Slight talc mouth feel.
Conclusion: Satisfactory, but not very interesting.

Hershey’s Cocoa

Origin: Pennsylvania.
Purveyor: Safeway.
Type: Natural process.
Color: Medium dark, reddish color.
Aroma: Soft chocolate aroma.
Flavor: Distinctive, unpleasant flavor; metallic and musty. (Could be old. No expiration date indicated on container.)
Texture: More than slight talc mouth feel.
Conclusion: Won’t use this cocoa.

Nestle Cocoa

Origin: Ohio.
Purveyor: Zupan’s, PDX.
Type: Natural process.
Color: Dark reddish brown.
Aroma: Classic dark chocolate aroma, like brownies just out of the oven.
Flavor: Sweet, mild, nicely acidic. Finishes sweet and bright on the tongue. Classic chocolate flavor but not particularly complex or memorable; doesn’t hold my interest.
Texture: Light bodied compared to some of the other sampled cocoas.
Conclusion: I wouldn’t hesitate to use this cocoa powder in a pinch or on a budget. There’s nothing objectionable about it. It just isn’t remarkable.

Pralus Cacao Poudre Plantation ***

Origin: France.
Purveyor: Cacao, PDX.
Type: Natural process.
Color: Rich dark brown.
Aroma: Full baked bittersweet brownie with vanilla and caramel notes. Wonderful!
Flavor: Deep, full, rich, complex with floral, cherry, caramel, vanilla, and woodsy notes. Beautifully balanced acid level. High notes don’t dominate as in many of the other cocoas here. Harmonic perfection.
Texture: Very thick, lush, creamy. Slight talc residue at the finish.
Conclusion: Amazing cocoa. I could add only water and a little sugar, stir, and eat it as a pudding or ganache. To my palate, this cocoa is perfection.

Scharffen Berger Natural Cocoa Powder **

Origin: California.
Purveyor: Williams Sonoma and City Market, PDX.
Type: Natural process.
Color: Medium brown color.
Aroma: Pleasant soft aroma.
Flavor: Very distinctive, memorable flavor with very bright (acidic), high, fruit-forward notes mingling with deep chocolate notes. Packs a flavor wallop!
Texture: Slight talc mouth feel.
Conclusion: This is an excellent cocoa powder. I love the bright flavor.

Trader Joe’s Organic Cocoa
Origin: Peru/USA.
Purveyor: Trader Joe’s.
Type: Natural-process.
Color: Medium brown.
Aroma: Full, almost wine-like aroma with a very slight metallic note.
Flavor: Very bright, distinctive, lively. High flavor notes dominant from start to finish; floral, earthy, metallic, and acidic.
Texture: Unpleasant talc mouth feel.
Conclusion: The acidity overpowers the dark chocolate notes, which limits its usefulness in the OtherWorldly Kitchen as an all-purpose cocoa. Might be perfect in a cocoa-chocolate combo recipe as an addition to a bittersweet bar chocolate that needs a lift.

Valrhona Cocoa Powder ***

Origin: France.
Purveyor: Sur La Table and City Market, PDX.
Type: Alkalized process.
Color: Very dark reddish-brown.
Aroma: Full and tantalizing, like chocolate chip cookies baking in the oven.
Flavor: Distinctive, complex, intense, deep, and well-balanced with floral and woodsy (cedar or fir) notes dominating.
Texture: Thickens to a lush, smooth texture almost immediately after mixing with water. Wonderful mouth feel.
Conclusion: It’s easy to see why so many pastry chefs prefer to use this cocoa in their restaurant desserts. Incredible cocoa.

Resources

Chocolate Making
Cocoa Powder: Dutch, Natural and Black Onyx
Cocoa Powder’s Processing, Origin Play Key Roles in Taste
Enjoying Chocolate
Tasting Cocoa Powder

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Tags: Askinosie, Caca Di Pernigotti, cocoa, cocoa basics, cocoa tasting, Dagoba, Domori, Droste, Dutch process cocoa, E. Guittard, Ghirardelli, Green & Black's, Hershey's, natural cocoa, Nestle's, Pralus, Scharffen Berger, the best cocoa, unsweetened cocoa powder, Valrhona

This entry was posted on Monday, February 1st, 2010 at 11:06 pm and is filed under Basics. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.